When you choose sea buckthorn oil, the part of the berry matters. Seed oil and berry pulp oil have different fatty-acid profiles, so the words “sea buckthorn oil” alone don’t tell the whole story.
At Winni Skin Co, our focus is berry pulp oil. Here, we explore that distinction, what researchers have investigated about omega-7, and why understanding your ingredients matters.
One berry, two different oils
Sea buckthorn seeds and the surrounding fruit pulp contain oils with distinctly different compositions. Neither needs to be dismissed as a “cheap” alternative. They simply offer different fatty-acid profiles.
In a 2012 study of four Canadian-grown sea buckthorn cultivars, researchers analysed fatty acids in seed and pulp lipid extracts using gas chromatography–mass spectrometry, or GC-MS.
The seed samples were rich in linoleic acid, an omega-6 fatty acid, and alpha-linolenic acid, an omega-3 fatty acid. The pulp samples stood out for their palmitoleic acid content, an omega-7 fatty acid.
This is the scientific basis for distinguishing berry pulp oil from seed oil. It is a difference in composition, not proof that one oil delivers better results for every skin type.
What the researchers measured
Seed oil: Linoleic acid accounted for 33–36% of total fatty acids, and alpha-linolenic acid for 30–36%. Palmitoleic acid was reported at less than 4%.
Berry pulp oil: Palmitoleic acid accounted for 32–42% of total fatty acids. Linoleic acid accounted for 8–14%, while alpha-linolenic acid was below 2%. Cis-vaccenic acid was reported separately at 5–7%.
Comparison note: These results come from the cultivars and samples analysed by Fatima and colleagues in 2012. They describe the proportion of individual fatty acids within the analysed fatty-acid profile, not the percentage of a bottled skincare formula. They are not batch-test results for Winni Skin Co’s Elixir.
Palmitoleic acid and vaccenic acid are both omega-7 fatty acids, but they are distinct compounds. The 32–42% figure above refers to palmitoleic acid alone, not a combined omega-7 total.
Why omega-7 attracts skincare interest
A 2019 review by Solà Marsiñach and Cuenca explored the fatty acids found in sea buckthorn oil and their potential relevance to human health, including skin.
The review describes high palmitoleic acid levels in pulp and peel oil, citing earlier research reporting concentrations up to 43%. It also notes that fatty-acid composition can vary with origin, subspecies and harvesting time.
That makes berry pulp oil an interesting ingredient to study. It does not mean every berry pulp oil contains 43% palmitoleic acid, or that applying it guarantees rapid skin-barrier repair.
The authors also make an important limitation clear: research directly investigating sea buckthorn oil fatty acids is limited, and much of the evidence they reviewed concerns isolated fatty acids rather than sea buckthorn oil itself.
Ingredient science versus skincare results
If you are searching for the best oil for skin barrier repair, it helps to separate two questions: what is in an ingredient, and what has been demonstrated when a particular product is applied to skin?
A composition study can answer the first question. It cannot, by itself, prove that a finished skincare product repairs the barrier, reduces redness or increases collagen production.
The research discussed here explains why berry pulp oil differs from seed oil. It does not establish a universal “best” oil or test Winni Skin Co’s finished Elixir.
The Winni Skin Co choice
Winni Skin Co’s Sea Buckthorn Oil Elixir is built around a simple ingredient choice: pure sea buckthorn berry pulp oil.
We believe that choice deserves a clear explanation, with research that helps you understand the ingredient rather than promises that go beyond the evidence.
For us, the story starts with knowing which part of the berry is in your bottle, and being transparent about what the science does and does not show.
References
Fatima T, Snyder CL, Schroeder WR, Cram D, Datla R, Wishart D, Weselake RJ, Krishna P. (2012). “Fatty Acid Composition of Developing Sea Buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides L.) Berry and the Transcriptome of the Mature Seed.” PLOS ONE, 7(4), e34099. DOI: 10.1371/journal.pone.0034099. Read the study.
Solà Marsiñach M, Cuenca AP. (2019). “The impact of sea buckthorn oil fatty acids on human health.” Lipids in Health and Disease, 18, 145. DOI: 10.1186/s12944-019-1065-9. Read the review.